Posts Tagged ‘rural’

The impact of tourism on rural life in Mallorca

Thursday, February 3rd, 2011

With the development of tourism in Mallorca, agriculture lost its hegemony and it is now an activity with very little importance in the economy, both in terms of the income it generates and the number of workers it employs. The end of the1950s and beginning of the 1960s saw the beginning of an exodus of country dwellers, who went from agriculture to the tourism and construction sectors, two economic activities whose development was closely linked. This brought about a crisis in traditional agriculture, which was based on cultivating dry land with a combination of trees such as the almond, the fig and the carob, as well as growing cereals such as wheat so as to obtain flour to make bread, which was an important staple of the diet. Other types of agricultural activity include vineyards, and olives in the Serra de Tramuntana, as well as livestock farming, which is principally ovine. Nowadays, this almost subsistence-level agriculture is not economically viable, as productivity is low and there are labour and machine costs that often exceed the value of the produce

The traditional cultivations are what define the Mallorcan landscape, and their attraction thereby contributes to the tourist industry, which is vital for the economy of the Balearic Islands. Thus, the degradation of this agriculture would have negative repercussions for the economy, in spite of its low level of productivity. The preservation of this agriculture comes about either through making it profitable, as in the case of the production of quality wines, or through public subsidies. In fact, these subsidies have meant that small property owners have been able to dedicate some of their free time to looking after their properties.

Tourism and the development of urban areas have created a strong demand for fresh vegetables, and this has led to the uptake of intensive, technical, irrigation-based cultivation methods in this sector, although production is still insufficient to meet demand. The growth of this sector is restricted by the scarcity of water, a resource that is necessary in large quantities for this type of cultivation.

The abandonment of agricultural activity has been accompanied by a change in the residential use of the land. Speculation has increased land and property values, and the influx of Northern Europeans, especially Germans, with incomes way above the Mallorcan average, has exacerbated the situation and raised prices enormously. The value of an estate is no longer valued by its productive capacity, but in terms of the construction possibilities that are legally permissible on it. These property value increases are yet another factor working against the economic viability of agricultural activity.

Tourists initially stayed exclusively in the resorts on the coast, however, over time they have spread into rural areas, staying in second homes, farmhouses in the agrotourism sector, or in small rural hotels. This type of tourism respects the environment and doesn’t involve consuming more tracts of land; it also brings in income to rural areas and helps maintain the landscape and the architectural heritage of the countryside.

The slaughter of pigs on Mallorca

Saturday, December 11th, 2010
Black Mallorcan pigs by a well.

Black Mallorcan pigs by a well.

Pigs have always been important in rural life, and indeed still are. The salty meat (off the bone, or bacon) and sausage products such as sobrasada (Mallorcan sausage), botifarrons, (Catalan sausage), camaiot (mixed sausage) and blanquets (sausage made from lard and pine kernels), are local delicacies. It was almost the only type of meat that was eaten by country dwellers during much of the year, and it is not at all surprising that it has such an important role within Mallorcan gastronomy. The festival of the slaughter of pigs is an important event in the winter calendar in rural Mallorca, and families get together on the day of the slaughter to make a celebration out of it. Most of the meat is used for sausage production, and absolutely everything that can be used in processing is taken advantage of. Once the work is finished, the feast begins; in past times, the celebration included music and dancing, but this part of the tradition has fallen by the wayside. This celebration is still very much alive, and even families who don’t work the land often fatten up a pig throughout the year, or buy one that is ready fattened, so as to slaughter it for the festival. The meat for the top quality sausages that are available on the island is thereby obtained, especially for sobrasada, which is eaten throughout the year. It is unlikely that this event will be kept going for much longer, because as the people who lived in the rural Mallorca prior to the tourist boom of the 1960s leave us, the tradition will decline. The current diet, in which fresh meat is a key part, has taken away a lot of the importance of sausage products as a source of protein, and in addition to this, the majority of the current generations have not been brought up in the way of the land and its working practices.

The Mallorcan pig is black, with light or slate-grey shading. This pigmentation is appropriate for the island’s climate, as it means that the animal has more protection from solar rays. However, the traditional white pig is more common on the island due to the production of high quality sausage products that is carried out.

Rural life in Mallorca

Friday, February 15th, 2002
While one woman works the palm leaves, the other makes a basket.

While one woman works the palm leaves, the other makes a basket.

These articles under the tag rural describes the traditional agricultural cultivation to be found on Mallorca´s landscape and shows the changes that it has undergone due to mass tourism. The onset of tourism brought about a radical transformation of Mallorcan society; the economy, which had previously been based on an agricultural system which operated at an almost subsistence level, was transformed to a service based economic model.

The images on these pages show the primitive agricultural methods that were used until the beginning of the 1960s.

Winyards and wine production on Mallorca

Friday, February 15th, 2002
A woman measures out wine before pouring it into a recipient inside a bodega. The bodegas where wine used to be sold became meeting places, and were eventually turned into the traditional Mallorcan restaurants.

A woman measures out wine before pouring it into a recipient inside a bodega. The "cellers" where wine used to be sold became meeting places, and were eventually turned into the traditional Mallorcan restaurants.

Vine cultivation probably came to Mallorca with the Roman conquest of 123 ad. The activity is documented during the Moorish occupation (903-1229), however, it was unlikely to have been important, as the grapes were not used for wine production, although raisins were an important part of the Muslim diet.

With the Catalan conquest of 1229, vine cultivation increased extraordinarily and vineyards for the production of wine started appearing. The new agricultural orientation that the conquerors instigated was probably based largely around vineyards and olive cultivation. Vine cultivation became a type of colonial monoculture, or at least that was the intention, and vineyards consequently spread throughout practically the whole island. In the majority of homes there was a bodega, even in small houses. In the fifteenth century a plague came down on Mallorcan vineyards and led to a decline in this cultivation, with it ultimately disappearing in many places.

Vine cultivation spread during the eighteenth century and the first third of the nineteenth. This expansion was helped along by the fact that in 1802 a tax exemption of twenty years was granted to those who cultivated vines. Production suffered mixed fortunes due to plagues until the end of the nineteenth century, at the same time there was also an enormous increase in demand from France. Phylloxera had destroyed French vine plantations, and in 1882 a contract was signed between France and Spain which favoured the export of Spanish wines. In Mallorca, vineyards grew up on land that had either been previously used for subsistence crops such as cereals and vegetables, or was uncultivated. This expansion was speculative, and more importance was given to quantity than quality. In 1891, there were more vineyards than ever, with 30,000 hectares of land given over to this activity; it is thought that the rise of the vineyard was one of the causes in the rise of small-scale land ownership as well. However, in the same year, 1891, the appearance of the phylloxera plague brought about the demise of all the vineyards on the island, and caused a serious economic crisis. Many peasants, day labourers and small land owners had to emigrate, the majority going to Cuba, Puerto Rico, Argentina and Algeria. The solution to the phylloxera was to replant the vineyards with American vines, however, different cultivations, especially cereals and almonds, were planted in many areas. Phylloxera highlighted the lack of prevision of a sector that wasn´t prepared for competition on the world market, and on top of this, France imposed tariffs that restricted Mallorcan exports in 1892.

Vine cultivation recovered in the twentieth century, especially in Felanitx, and the creation of the Oenology Station has spread more scientific cultivation techniques. Production was more or less stable over the course of the twentieth century until the 1980s, when this sector found itself in a crisis that had been brought on at a general level the decadence of Mallorcan agriculture, or to be more specific, by the low profitability of the sector and the competitiveness of the market. Other handicaps were the excessive parcelling of land and the high number of vines per hectare, which made mechanisation difficult, and subsidies from the EU in return for abandoning this cultivation, which led to the destruction of 1000 hectares of vineyards between 1985 and 1996.

Wine is currently going through a revival. This has come about due to the development of quality wines that fetch good prices owing to their limited production runs and a strong internal demand from the tourist sector. There are two regulatory boards for wines in Mallorca, with two appellations d´origine: Denominación de origen de Binissalem and Denominación del Pla i Llevant de Mallorca.

The cultivation of wheat i Mallorca

Friday, February 15th, 2002

A barefoot peasant sweeps the threshing floor while the other throws wheat into the air to separate the grain from the straw.

Vine cultivation probably came to Mallorca with the Roman conquest of 123 ad. The activity is documented during the Moorish occupation (903-1229), however, it was unlikely to have been important, as the grapes were not used for wine production, although raisins were an important part of the Muslim diet.

With the Catalan conquest of 1229, vine cultivation increased extraordinarily and vineyards for the production of wine started appearing. The new agricultural orientation that the conquerors instigated was probably based largely around vineyards and olive cultivation. Vine cultivation became a type of colonial monoculture, or at least that was the intention, and vineyards consequently spread throughout practically the whole island. In the majority of homes there was a bodega, even in small houses. In the fifteenth century a plague came down on Mallorcan vineyards and led to a decline in this cultivation, with it ultimately disappearing in many places.

Vine cultivation spread during the eighteenth century and the first third of the nineteenth. This expansion was helped along by the fact that in 1802 a tax exemption of twenty years was granted to those who cultivated vines. Production suffered mixed fortunes due to plagues until the end of the nineteenth century, at the same time there was also an enormous increase in demand from France. Phylloxera had destroyed French vine plantations, and in 1882 a contract was signed between France and Spain which favoured the export of Spanish wines. In Mallorca, vineyards grew up on land that had either been previously used for subsistence crops such as cereals and vegetables, or was uncultivated. This expansion was speculative, and more importance was given to quantity than quality. In 1891, there were more vineyards than ever, with 30,000 hectares of land given over to this activity; it is thought that the rise of the vineyard was one of the causes in the rise of small-scale land ownership as well. However, in the same year, 1891, the appearance of the phylloxera plague brought about the demise of all the vineyards on the island, and caused a serious economic crisis. Many peasants, day labourers and small land owners had to emigrate, the majority going to Cuba, Puerto Rico, Argentina and Algeria. The solution to the phylloxera was to replant the vineyards with American vines, however, different cultivations, especially cereals and almonds, were planted in many areas. Phylloxera highlighted the lack of prevision of a sector that wasn´t prepared for competition on the world market, and on top of this, France imposed tariffs that restricted Mallorcan exports in 1892.

Vine cultivation recovered in the twentieth century, especially in Felanitx, and the creation of the Oenology Station has spread more scientific cultivation techniques. Production was more or less stable over the course of the twentieth century until the 1980s, when this sector found itself in a crisis that had been brought on at a general level the decadence of Mallorcan agriculture, or to be more specific, by the low profitability of the sector and the competitiveness of the market. Other handicaps were the excessive parcelling of land and the high number of vines per hectare, which made mechanisation difficult, and subsidies from the EU in return for abandoning this cultivation, which led to the destruction of 1000 hectares of vineyards between 1985 and 1996.

Wine is currently going through a revival. This has come about due to the development of quality wines that fetch good prices owing to their limited production runs and a strong internal demand from the tourist sector. There are two regulatory boards for wines in Mallorca, with two appellations d´origine: Denominación de origen de Binissalem and Denominación del Pla i Llevant de Mallorca.

The cultivation of wheat in Mallorca

Friday, February 15th, 2002

A barefoot peasant sweeps the threshing floor while the other throws wheat into the air to separate the grain from the straw.

Ever since Neolithic times, wheat has been a staple food on Mallorca. During the Talaiotic period, which was prior to the Roman conquest, wheat and livestock formed the base of both the diet and the economy.

Wheat from the Balearic Islands has been praised in sources from the Roman period, and was cultivated in a classic Mediterranean combination together with vines and olives. During the period of Moorish rule (from 903 to 1229), in which the island had a good water network that supplied water to the city and nearly all the cultivated areas, wheat wasn’t very important. In fact, the irrigated lands were mainly used for fresh vegetables and animal feed, as well as for some production of rice and cotton. Following the feudal Christian conquest that was carried out by the Crown of Catalonia and Aragon in 1229, the Moorish cultivations were substituted and cereals became the alimentary base for the population. Wheat then became the most important cereal, followed by other cereals such as barley, which were used as animal feed and also for human consumption during times of hunger.

Until modern times, the irregularity of the crops was always a problem, this being due to the Mediterranean climate and the inefficient cultivation techniques of the times; there was thus a dependency on wheat imports from other parts of the Mediterranean. Problems with maritime transport in this period meant that the imports were often delayed, and the fixing of prices, storage and distribution of wheat became a monopoly of the governing institutions. A bad year brought with it hunger to a section of the people, who, once malnourished, became easy prey to the pestilence which flourished under the sanitary conditions of the time. Another consequence was the chronic debt of the public purse of Mallorca, which had to provide money to pay for the imports of the wheat.
From the eighteenth century onwards, Mallorca achieved a greater degree of integration into the international trading circuit, and this together with improvements in maritime transport, meant that wheat could be regularly supplied from abroad. This brought about a decrease in the proportion of land dedicated to wheat cultivation, which was substituted by commercial crops such as vines in accordance with international demand. This trend continued until the second half of the twentieth century, since which time traditional cultivation has been progressively abandoned for the lure of the tourist economy, and wheat production has consequently been reduced; in fact, wheat cultivation only manages to keep going thanks to public subsidies.

Country life and popular culture in Mallorca

Friday, February 15th, 2002

A pair of musicians with bagpipes, a tin whistle and a drum.

Local traditions and festivals in Mallorca, which are nearly always related to working the land and Catholicism, have been kept alive as a part of country life. The way that people have adapted to their surroundings has been an important feature in the formation of our culture. The island’s physical conditions in terms of climate, isolation, the soil and vegetation, meant that a way of life based on self-sufficiency endured for a long time, with crop and livestock farming as the economic base.

The cultivation of olives in Mallorca

Friday, February 15th, 2002
A print taken from the book Die Balearen showing the stone used to press the olives and thus extract the oil, in the Massanella oil mill, which is part of an estate on the Serra de Tramuntana mountains.

A print taken from the book Die Balearen showing the stone used to press the olives and thus extract the oil, in the Massanella oil mill, which is part of an estate on the Serra de Tramuntana mountains.

The cultivation of olives and the consumption of olive oil have a long tradition in Mallorca. Olive oil is fundamental in Mallorcan cooking, and in the past it was also used for lighting in houses. The olive tree is typically Mediterranean and is well suited to the unique climate of Mallorca, especially in the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, where olive trees, some of which are over a thousand years old, form a part of the landscape.

It was in the sixteenth century that great advances were made in olive cultivation and the production of olive oil, especially in the villages of the Sierra de Tramuntana mountain range, with Sóller being the main production centre. Olives were the main source of wealth for the estates in these villages for a long period of time, and nearly all the estates had their own oil mill. Oil produced in excess of local demand was exported to economic centres such as London, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Hamburg and Marseilles, and we thus see the dominant social classes involved in controlling production and commerce. Rather than being for human consumption, the exported oil was used as a raw material in industrial processes. In England and Holland, low-grade oils were needed in textile mills, and Marseilles, with its powerful chemical industry, imported oil from Mallorca for use in the fabrication of soap.

Between the second half of the seventeenth century and the first decades of the eighteenth, oil represented between 65% and 85% of all exports from Mallorca. But from 1850 onwards, oil became secondary in the export rankings, as exports such as wine and almonds became stronger; and on top of this, at the end of the nineteenth century the international market lost interest in Mallorcan oil, which was largely of a low quality and shunned in favour of oil from Italy by both American and European consumers. However, despite the continued decline of oil exports right up until the beginning of the twentieth century, it continued to be the main source of income for the estates with their own oil mill on the Sierra de Tramuntana.

Nowadays the geography of the area and the subsequent difficulty in gaining access with machinery, as well as insect plagues and the general state of abandonment of the olive groves, mean that cultivating olives is difficult, and the production of oil has greatly declined. Oli verge de la Serra de Tramuntana (virgin olive oil of the Sierra de Tramuntana) is obtained from Mallorcan olives that are grown at an altitude of between 300m and 600m. This oil has a QC (quality control) denomination from the Agriculture and Fisheries Ministry of the Regional Government of the Balearic Islands.

Oxen in Mallorca island

Friday, February 15th, 2002
A peasant leading a Mallorcan ox

A peasant leading a Mallorcan ox

There is an indigenous breed of ox on Mallorca that is still found on the island, and which is thought to be possibly related to a breed from the island of Sardinia. It was used for agricultural tasks, with the castrated male being particularly heavily employed on the land.

It wasn’t used for consumption until the First World War, when both its milk and meat entered the diet. It is currently becoming extinct, this being due to the fact that agricultural machinery has taken over work involving tractive force and that its productivity in terms of milk and meat is below that of other breeds. It is possible to see this animal at the Parc Natural de S’Albufera.

Horses, mules and donkeys in Mallorca

Friday, February 15th, 2002

These were the draught animals used for transportation. Many agricultural tasks depended on the force of these animals, such as the working of wells to obtain water, the operation of animal driven mills for grinding, and the performance of many tasks in the fields. With the onset of mechanisation, the use of these animals fell into decline; in fact this happened to such an extent that there is now a recovery plan for the Mallorcan donkey, which finds itself in danger of extinction.

The situation for horses is somewhat different, this being due to the success enjoyed by equestrian activities, especially chariot racing in Palma and Manacor.